About Us
A story of love between Tito's and London
as told by Maria Zahouani, managing director at Tito's Eateries Ltd. to Rebecca Taylor in a Time Out London interview
The little Peruvian town of Huaral on the outskirts of Lima is synonymous with food. It is famous for producing some of the best seafood dishes in the country. "Every second house is a restaurant. There, all people think about is eating, eating, eating," says Maria Zahouani, 52, who left Peru in 1980 to live and work in London.
It's no surprise, then, that Zahouani manages Tito's - one of only two Peruvian Restaurants in the capital. There, her chef cook incredibly fresh portions of parihuela de mariscos (seafood soup), arroz con mariscos (seafood risotto) and other traditional dishes.
Arriving in London aged 25, she worked first as a housekeeper for her brother. In particular, she cared for her nephew, Tito (hence the restaurant's name) who has Down's Syndrome. She found London "calm and settled, although not colourful like Peru".
Zahouani began working as a waitress, and then as a manager, at the Flannegans Irish restaurant chain. "The food was very strong to me, specially steak and kidney pie. I didn't like it at all." In 1991 she finally realised her dream of owning her own business with a Peruvian coffee shop in Gray's Inn Road. "There were three tables, and people queued to get in", she says.
There has been a Peruvian community in London for years - it numbers around 5,000 - employed as everything from cleaners to City bankers, and students. Most Peruvians live south the river, especially around Brixton, and many head to Tito's at weekends: "On Sundays, people come with their families and it's like one large party." The London-based Antara Group (a familiar sight, busking around London in their ponchos) also play there for special celebrations. Big events include Peruvian Independence Day on July 28 and Día de la Canción criolla (Day of Criolla Song) on October 31, a celebration of criolla, Peruvian Music which combines African, Spanish and Andean influences.
It's traditional for party-goesr to eat a pork dish called pachamanca, usually made by putting a whole pig onto burning charcoal, covering it with sticks, banana skins and earth and leaving it for four hours. According to Zahouani, "it gives off an amazing smell", though in London she uses huge ovens to cook the dish.
Zahouani says she is proud to be a Londoner. "The city gives opportunities. If you want to work hard you will get somewhere - I haven't done too badly."
This interview was Published in Time Out London, Juanuary 31-February 6 issue, No. 1902, 2007
Very much a cantina, Tito's is designed to offer London Bridge's office workers a break from chilled sandwiches and crisps. It's a bit basic for an evening excursion, unless you've spent months in Lima and have got used to zero-atmosphere dining and hearty food.
Nonetheless, we gave it a go, and the combination of traditional ceviche (fresh raw fish marinated in lime, with onions and sweet potato) followed by rice, yucca, pumpkin and fried prawns was impressive. The vegetables and fish were carefully spiced, and tastier than maize-heavy dishes served in many Colombian cantinas. Both items were vast, so it's best to share. We even managed a fruit cocktail and ice cream and a glass of Inca Kola between the beers. With the waitresses more relaxed and caring at lunch, the place even managed to be a bit romantic in a lovers-down-at-heel kind of way.
It's an ideal spot to down a Pisco Sour and enjoy an authentic experience, and now that nearby Fina Estampa has closed, Tito's is London's surviving temple of Peruvian reality - rather like the Machu Picchu ruin that adorns its menu.
